Sardines and the last warm week
The boat came in on Tuesday with more sardines than it could sell, so they went on the grate whole, a dozen at a time, and onto bread that had been in the oven an hour before.
Sardines want the hottest coals and almost no time: thirty seconds a side, until the skin blisters and lifts. We salt them twenty minutes before, not more, and keep the lemon on the grate beside them so it comes off charred and soft.
They were on for four nights. By Saturday the water had turned and the boat brought mackerel instead, so the bread stayed and the fish changed. That is most weeks here.
From the pass, late October









